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1 Finishing Woollen Cloth
See Woollen Finishing.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Finishing Woollen Cloth
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2 Woollen Fabrics
An extremely varied class of textures comprising ladies' dress materials, suitings, overcoatings, shawls, machinery felts, etc., in which all classes of wool not used for worsted spinning are utilised, along with all classes of wool wastes, re-used wools, cotton and other materials mixed, blended and twisted into yarns too varied in character to enumerate. Special treatments of the cloth in finishing such as milling, felting, raising, etc., make woollens in their various classes among the most generally useful of outer clothing textures. -
3 Blister Cloth
A fine woollen cloth, woven on the double-cloth principle with botany warp and weft for face and mohair warp and weft for back. The figuring produced by interchanging face and back is developed during finishing. The botany parts shrink and the mohair bulges on the face. Many qualities are made. One quality is made from 2/40's mohair and 2/60's botany yarns in both warp and weft. The yarns are one end mohair and one end botany. Practically all crimps and crepons are blister cloths (see Crimps) -
4 Kyrle Cloth
A peculiar type of curl effect obtained in woollen fabrics woven 1 end wool and 1 end mohair, which after finishing show a curl all over the face. It is made both plain curl and in figured designs and was originally manufactured at Galashiels more than 60 years ago. -
5 Fulling
See Milling. ———————— A process in woollen finishing that causes the material to contract and become denser in texture or felted. The fulling machines apply pressure, moisture and heat. ———————— See Felting and Milling. Originally this term denoted the whole of the processes of felting and finishing woollen fabrics, but today the word is practically equivalent to felting, and is the process of cleaning and shrinking cloth by moisture, heat and pressure. -
6 Flock Descriptions (Bed Fillings-Flock)
The Rag Flock Acts, 1911 and 1928, distinguished the two different types of flock; " Flock manufactured from rags mean unused flock which has been produced wholly or partly by tearing up woven or knitted or felted materials whether old or new, but does not include unused flock obtained wholly in the processes of the scouring and finishing of newly woven, knitted, or felted fabrics." The following descriptions should be applied to flock made from previously used materials which have been properly washed: - Washed Woollen Flock - Rag flock, as defined in paragraph above which has a wool content of 70 per cent or greater. Washed Flock - Rag flock, as defined in paragraph above, which has a wool content of less than 76 per cent. The following descriptions should be applied to flock derived from the scouring and finishing of newly woven, etc., fabrics: - Woollen Flock - Flock (other than rag flock) as defined in paragraph above, with a wool content of 70 per cent or greater. New Fabric Flock - Flock (other than rag flock) as defined in paragraph above, with a wool content of less than 70 per cent. Cotton Flock - Flock manufactured from unused raw cotton, unused raw cotton waste, or from unused waste produced in the finishing processes in the manufacture of cotton cloth. (Manufacturer's tolerance, 5 per cent). R.T.S.A. Standard.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Flock Descriptions (Bed Fillings-Flock)
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7 Dress-Pace Finish
Such cloths as beavers, billiard cloth, doeskins, pilots, and other heavily felted and raised woollen fabrics, are dress-face finished. During the finishing the fabrics are made dense and fibrous by " felting," then the fibres are drawn to the surface, straightened and combed in one direction by " raising " and lustre is given in a boiling process. The finished fabric is covered with a short nap so that the weave is entirely hidden. -
8 Naps
An all-wool overcoating made 72-in. wide in the loom to finish 58-in. Woven with indigo dyed yarns about 36 ends and 48 picks per inch. Good quality felting yarns are used and when finished the weave is not visible. During finishing the surface of the cloth is rubbed into small knots. Naps are very similar to Witneys, Waverleys, etc. Typical cloths are made as follow: - Union Nap - Warp 2/40's cotton, 60 ends and 48 picks per inch. Face weft 110 yards per oz. openband mungo, back weft 54 yards per oz. openband shoddy, weight 26-oz. per yard. All Wool - Warp 250 yards per oz. cross-band woollen weft 310 yards per oz. openband woollen, 56 ends and 104 picks per inch. R gives the weave for Reversible Witney, N for Nap and Sardinian, and W for Waverley. NAP WARP - An old time name for pile warp.
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9 Duvetyn
Is made from a twofold cotton warp and schappe silk weft in the 1 X 3 weft twill weave. Finished by raising, cropping and brushing the face of the fabric. Dyed grey and brown and looks like doeskin. Used for collars, trimmings, handbags, etc. The name is derived from the French word " duvet " meaning " down " and is thus meant to be a soft downy fabric. The finishing process is a specialised one as the cloth has to be washed, dyed, raised on the face by emery rollers, cropped, and singed in order',to produce a very soft and velvet finish. Also known as " Mouse-skin." Another variety is made with a worsted warp and tussah weft and slightly raised on the face; weave, 4-shaft twill, 1 X 3 lift, weft face, in 56-in. width. ———————— A very soft woollen fabric resembling velvet and having a fine short nap that is raised during the process of finishing and gives the material a silky appearance. Used for coats, suits and dresses. -
10 Lustreing
A woollen fabric finishing process. After napping, such material as kerseys, beavers, thibets, tricots, plushes, Venetians, military cloths, and all worsteds require a special operation known as steam lustreing. Steam is forced through the cloth for about five minutes followed by cold water. The steam brings out the lustre and the cold water sets it.
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